Proper lighting is also very important to the well-being of a Bearded Dragon. A good split of day/night is 14/10. This can easily be regulated by a timer, which can be found at almost any hardware store. ((not only is it better for the Dragon... its much easier on the caregiver. :)) A basking spot is also a must for a Beardie. The Dragons body temperatures are important for digestion and fighting off illness.
A low watt bulb, placed in a reflector dome at one end of the cage, will concentrate the bulbs heat to that one side of the cage. The top basking area on one side of the cage (closest to the light) should peek between 100 - 105 degrees for adults and 100 - 110 for babies - with the ambient cage temperature on the other side of the cage being significantly cooler - approximately 80-85 degrees. This basking temperature may seem high, but these temperatures are common of the ground surface when air temperatures are over 85 degrees. Remember though, this is a peek temperature and not a constant temperature. The trick is to slowly bring the temperature of the basking area up, allow it to level off for a short period of time and then drop slowly once again. (Yes, this can be tricky... but that is where cage accessories come in handy.)
The nighttime temperature of your cage can drop into the 60's without worry. If your house gets cooler than that, you may need to invest in a red bulb for nighttime temperature maintenance. This will emit the heat needed to keep the temperature up, but not the light that will interrupt the dragons sleep pattern. WARNING - Do not use an electrical reptile heat rock or heating pad as a heat source for your Bearded Dragons. These products have the potential to fatally burn the dragon's belly, as many lizards do not feel a 'localized' temperature... but an overall body temperature. (See Thermal Burns below)
The need for a full spectrum florescent reptile light is among those topics being disputed between Hobbyists at the moment. Dragons DO need a source of UVB light to naturally produce vitamin D3, (which helps to absorb calcium) and without a steady supply of it, are more subject to complications. This can be obtained by a bulb or by subjecting your Dragon to natural sunlight for a period of time each day. Many people think that by placing the vivarium near a window and allowing the reptile to bask in the sun will help. This is not so. Normal plate glass as used in windows and vivariums will actually filter out the ultra-violet rays that are required to synthesize natural vitamin D3.
If choosing to use a full spectrum light, the bulb should be within 6-10 inches of the basking area, so they can absorb the UV-A and UV-B to manufacture their vitamin D3 for bone formation. These bulbs need to be replaced after 6 months time. Once again, it is not vital AS LONG AS there is proper supplementation in their diet and enough light intensity.
We feel UVB indoor lights are not needed if dragons are fed a proper diet; and supplemented with Vitamin D3. A calcium/D3 supplement, like RepCal can be used in place of the UVB bulb. The dragon still received its needed Vitamin D3, but instead of producing it itself, it is given dietarily.
